In recent years the “trampoline effect” that alloy and composite bats produce has been garnering a lot of attention. This got us wondering, what is the trampoline effect and why is it getting so much attention? Well, to help understand the subject a little better, The Hardball Network, has done some research to answer the question, what is the trampoline effect?

The Trampoline Effect

Photo credit: wcn247 on / CC BY-NC-ND

In the game of baseball, the trampoline effect is defined as how fast a baseball bounces off a bat when it makes contact. To test the trampoline effect scientists shoot a baseball at a stationary bat and record the balls reaction using a combination of lasers and high tech cameras. Wood, alloy. and composite bats all produce different trampoline effects with alloy and composite producing higher numbers during the ball-bat collision.

Why Do Non-Wood Bats Produce a Higher Trampoline Effect?

Photo credit: SingleDadLaughing on Visual Hunt / CC BY-NC-ND

It comes down to energy lost during the ball-bat collision. Wood bats are solid, so when a pitched ball hits the bat the ball compresses losing up to three-quarters of its energy through internal frictions in the ball and transverse vibrations through the bat. Because alloy and composite bats are hollow the barrel can flex, which lowers ball compression, and the energy lost through transverse vibrations in wood bats is instead transferred into surface vibrations which are returned to the ball producing a higher trampoline effect. 

How is the trampoline Effect Affecting Play?

Photo credit: acase1968 on / CC BY-NC-ND

Because alloy and composite bats are lighter with larger sweet spots than wood, the trampoline effect these bats produce is giving hitters an unfair advantage over pitchers especially when it comes to the exit velocity of the ball off the bat. Remember, if you read our article, Understanding Exit Velocity, the higher the exit velocity the further the ball will go. According to ESPN Sports Science, when you factor in pitch speed, swing speed, and launch angle, an increase in trampoline effect of just 5% can turn a 375-foot long fly ball into a 400-foot home run.

Trying To Correct the Trampoline Effect

Since the vast majority of bats used at the youth and amateur levels are made from alloy or composite materials several methods for evaluating bat performance have been implemented. Youth baseball member organizations within USA Baseball, the national governing body of baseball in the United States, have adopted the USA Bat Standard, which requires non-wood bats at the youth level to perform more like the top of the line wood bats. As of January 1, 2018, if you are 14 years old or younger you must use a bat with a USA Bat Standard approved stamp on it.

At the NFHS and NCAA level, all bats must now be BBCOR (Batted Ball Coefficient of Restitution) approved. BBCOR measures how much energy is lost in the ball-bat collision or how much the bat springs. The higher the number indicates a higher trampoline effect. The BBCOR standard is set at 0.5 which is only slightly higher than a wood bat. All bats in game and tournament play must have the BBCOR approved stamp on them.

Want to Learn More?

Need advice on purchasing a bat? Be sure to read our article, What to Consider When Purchasing a Bat.

Want to learn more about the science behind baseball? Just click SCIENCE

Leave us Feedback

How did we do? Leave a comment below and let us know we want to hear from you. Also, if you have not done so yet, please like, share, and subscribe to The Hardball Network. It may just increase the exit velocity off your bat if you do.


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and I’ve taken the shorter end meaning that the length of the fabric is facing in this direction I take the short end I fold it over and I line it up along the longer of the fabric and what that does it gives me a 45 degree angle that 45 degree angle what it allows for in the project piece is a lot more give to make make it around the curves of all the cushions I’m not fighting that natural tendency to curve around so in almost every case of upholstery I cut all the well cording on a bias cut so now that that’s been folded over what I could simply do is go ahead and take my pair of scissors and split it all the way down this channel that I’ve made and what that’s going to do is it’s going to expose my very starting edge for all of my subsequent well cord pieces the starter piece is cut and so at this point I’m going to take my trusty sharpie marker and I’ll get my cloth measure tape and I’ll line it up directly onto this edge of the fabric I’ll mark it at one and three-quarter inches 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piece and flip it over the top of the other at a 90 degree angle and then I can go in here and offset it so that I can get my half inch seam so you’ll see what I wind up with here are two little tails that are sticking out on either end and my seam is actually going to be right along this line here where I’ll put this pin to show you how this is going to wind up so when its flipped it’s going to line up perfectly now if I don’t do these little tails on either end you’ll see what happens if I line it up tip to tip and I pin it with a half inch seam that’s what’s going to wind up happening so you cannot put it together this way it needs to have those little tail sticking out 90 degree angle flip it up from here 90 degree angle line up your edges and then simply slide it until you get your half inch seam tip to tip pin it and then run it under your machine so I’m just going to put this underneath on my presser foot and go ahead and stitch this in place now I have this outfitted with my zipper foot on here and I’m just going to sew pretty close to that own piece underneath [Applause] now you’ll notice that the phone piece starts right about here and I have a little tail here and that’s that’s been done on purpose so start about inch inch and a half down from your finish edge of your so once you’re well cord is sewn in place you’ll see the stitching very close to the foam cord underneath and I’ve got my half inch seam allowance all the way along and so that’s nice and finished and ready to be applied to the new fabric so unfortunate enough to have I size individual pieces for the cushions on the seats and I have six individual pieces for the cushions on the backs right now I’m going to start on putting one of the backs together I’ve already completed one of them and so this is what it winds up looking like when it’s completely finished I’ve got this really nice contrast well cord I decided to put on a couple of straps along the back that’s going to attach it to the metal frame on the sectional itself so I attach those as well and then I’ve gone ahead and I’ve simply slip stitched this entire thing along the bottom so I danced already stuff that looks brand-new it’s been wrapped up in a polyester fiberfill fabric so that’s ready to go and great thing about this is that I can now take this as a reference when I’m putting my new pieces together I can visualize how the well cording needs to go and what I need to do with it in order to manipulate it to look like this when I sew it back together so I what I’m going to do at this point is these are the three pieces for the back and I’m going to simply pin these together and sew them now let me simply say something about what I’m doing here with the thread you know you really do need to have a commercial type sewing machine the thread that you’re going to put through that commercial sewing machine is super sick and it really makes a difference in the type of thread that you use UV resistant thread is a 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it so you know another choice for you might be a monofilament nylon thread that’s what I use for upholstery pieces for indoor purposes and that really isn’t particularly a UV resistant thread either but if you are willing to take the cushions off and bring them inside when the weather is inclement then I think you’ll be okay all three pieces of the back are sewn together and so I have two seams here that actually need to be matched up to the two corners of my front piece now I’ve gone ahead and I stitched the well cord onto the face fabric all along the edges and so at this point what I’m going to do here is because it needs to have this kind of strange configuration all along the top and the edge the best thing to do is to take the two corners slime them up along the top edge here and pin them right where the seam is and that way what that will wind up doing for me is give me a reference point as to where the sides need to go sometimes it’s super hard to start stitching at the very bottom and go along all the way to the other side and realize that your half inch too short or 1/2 inch too long so I’m minimizing this by going ahead and making sure that the corners are matched up directly with the seams and you can see that here this is the area that I’m talking about here this is the corner that I’ve just made on the front and here is my seam so this these two areas are where I’m pinning right now so now that idea it’s really great to have it as a reference for you so if you’ve got the luxury of being able to look at the old piece or the new piece whatever it really is helpful so I pulled this nice and tight and I find my very middle and I go ahead and I pin that as well so at this point I’m not going to go ahead and finish pinning all the way around what I want to do really is I want to start stitching at the corner and go all the way around this way and when I’m done with that I’ll go all the way around this way and that’ll make certain that these two corners stay exactly where they need to stay so this is just a way of positioning things I have the needle lowered into the fabric right at the corner here so this is my starting point I’m going to ignore everything to the left of this until I finish this entire seam and the great thing about this machine is that it’s got this underneath this little foot and have a groove and so basically that foam welt can just kind of feed in underneath that groove it’ll keep it nice and straight and that’s what makes it really really nice and taut when you’re done so I’ll go ahead and and I’m making sure that my right hand side is lined up with my fabric underneath I’m at the other corner now and so I’m going to make the turn by raising the presser foot and pulling the fabric toward me this top fabric and then I can lower it again that’ll make a beautiful crisp corner and then I’ll just give you a tutorial on how to deal with these corners this is the curved corner and so it’s really kind of difficult to go ahead and manipulate this fabric around and so basically what I do is if the apex of the curve I clip it here and I clip it here and then I can get more control out of this fabric and pulling it around and making a nice perfect yeah okay I have that one side done so I’m going to flip it out just to show you how really nice this works so I have this all stitched in place and so now I’m going to go ahead and go back to that other corner that I left behind and I’m going to work on this side making sure that everything is lined up perfectly I have all the corners are totally lined up everything is nice and neat all the way around I’ve sewn in my two flats and I’ve got a little snap system here I have brass snaps because they’re not going to rust if there is they ever do get wet or exposed to humidity they’re not going to rust through so I have those attached to the back as well before I go ahead and actually put the insert in I’m going to take this polyester fiberfill fabric which is about an inch thick and so I’m simply going to line it up along this top edge here and push it into it really really well to cut it straight along the bottom right along the plane of the bottom of the so this is what I wind up with it’s just kind of sandwiched in there like that and all it’s going to do it’s going to take up any additional airspace that happens to be in this cushion cover so again this takes a little bit of finessing to get this in and I’m making sure that I have my angled piece lined up with the angled piece on the cushion cover so if you have any unusual configurations what I would say is to take any unusual piece and put that in first so I’m going to start with that angled portion and put that directly into the corner it’s the point where these key pins are really really helpful they’re super heavy-duty so I do have to kind of manipulate this a little bit in order to get this turned up the proper way so I flipped this fabric over or under sorry 1/2 an inch and I need it a half an inch up on the other fabric and I pin it in place and this is temporary because I’m going to go back and I’m going to even all of this out as soon as I get everything pinned in all along the entire length and that’s how I do it I pull it nice and tight and then I pin it in place and you know quite honestly these pins just make it so much easier so here’s how I slip stitch this together so I have my clear thread and I’m really sorry about that that you can’t see it but you can see the technique of what how I do this with a needle I go ahead and I take the point and I put it to the through the fabric underneath and then through the fabric on top and just continue on in this manner pulling the thread nice and tight after each time you go through and you can continue this all the way along the entire length a hand stitching is all done so this cushion is complete and I’ll go ahead and I’ll demonstrate a seat cushion for you so that you can see how I the exact same principle apply to any shape of cushion I’ve started this project by going ahead and stitching down the welt cording so the welt cord is done and basically what I do here to get these nice crisp corners is I clip the well cording at the corner and make that nice crisp turn so when it’s done you’ll be able to see a little peekaboo of the finished fabric from the top peeking it through so that’s how I finished this now again I’m going to go back to that same theory about seams and starting it at certain points where the seams are so I have to sew the side on and I’m referencing how this is going to go this corner needs to be lined up with this corner so I’m going to go ahead and I’m going to line this up directly at the corner and pin it in place and this is where I’m going to start stitching so I’ll view one on this side and then I’ll do the other one on the other side and I’ll be clipping around the corner I’ll be clipping the welt cord around the corner so that I can make that turn and have it look really nice and neat and so this is where this corner is going to wind up and I’m just going to pin it in place here so that I know where to start stitching so you’ll see I started at the corner and I came around and followed this configuration for the side panel and wound up here so I’m simply going to do the exact same thing on the other side start at this corner and go all the way around and make that configuration okay so this is a little different so now we have everything finished on the inside I flip it this way up and I’m going to put right sides together with the old fabric on top and what I’ve done again lining up all the corners first line up the corners pin them and then go ahead and pull it nice and taut and then get your centerpiece and pin that and so I’ll just show you briefly how I do that so I get one of my really nice T pins i line this up right at the corner and I pin it and then I pull it nice and tight locate the center and pin it again till I get all four corners and then I’m simply going to start at one end and go all the way around okay everything is sewn together you’ll see I’ve got all the corners matched up perfectly along all the edges so I have this giant opening here and what I need to do is make sure that I have a top and a bottom and I know that this is the bottom so I’m going to insert this this way and again it’s going to take a little bit of finessing to get it in there and chances are when you go back to your original piece you’re going to notice and perfections and what came out of the manufacturing facility that actually made the cushion so you know a lot of this stuff isn’t exactly 100 percent perfect so if you feel like you’re not going to be able to get this quite right I wouldn’t worry about that because the stuff that you’re buying probably isn’t 100 percent quite right either so trust me you’re going to make a nice product here I have one last example to show you of the throw pillow that goes along the sides of the entire sectional so I have a front and back cutout Assistants be original and I have my wall cord already covered that I pulled off of the original pillow and so basically all I’m going to do at this point is go ahead and at the bottom of the pillow I’ll line up my well cord and start stitching this on respond to the right side and so once I get that done I can go ahead and meet this welt cord together and remembering that I have the ends that are open and I can slip one piece inside the other once you have all of your well cord attached to the face fabric you can then take your backing fabric and place it over the top matching all of the corners and then take your teeth pins and pin all of those in place now when you’re stitching this just make sure that you’re going to be keeping a nice size opening at the bottom so that you can get your polyester fiberfill back in and you’re not going to be struggling to get it in there if you leave a big enough hole you’ll have plenty of space in order to put that back in very easily before I go ahead and flip it right side out I take the corners and I clip them very close into the stitching and help you probably three cuts per corner and what this is going to do it’s going to allow for some bunching that might occur if you just flicked it the way it was it’ll it will alleviate that from getting to bunching in the corners and make it make it live really really straight see how well the corners turned out simply by clipping them there say it’s going to lie nice and flat and if you’ll see here’s the original you know I think my corners look a little bit better than theirs do so I’m you know I think that’s a really great tip on getting these corners to lay just just the right way so from this point I’m going to go ahead I’ll step it and then I’ll go ahead and flip stitch it again with a monofilament threads you can’t see it I just want to give you a close-up on how this is closed off it’s closed off a little differently than the actual seat cushions the seat cushions themselves really won’t be seen but this is this is a pillow it’s going to be seen from all angles and so basically here’s what I do I come up into the blue fabric and grab a little bit of that and then I take the tip of the needle and I put it in a spot just above the stitching for the welt course so it’s just a little tiny bit above that and then I pull it and let me show you one more time I have the blue fabric get it in a little bit then go just above that welt cord stitching straight across and then come through pull it nice and tight and you’ll see I have all of this done it looks just as good as anything that came out of a machine so if you follow the same procedure you’ll have the exact same results here’s the before and here’s the after they’re identical this one’s a little cleaner so I’m wasn’t it difficult and I’m just going to plug away at it I’ve got 15 cushions all together so I’m just going to do the exact same process for each cushion now in the case of your cushion and if it’s a different style if it’s got some odd little angles to it be patient and make sure that you’re making all of your little individual cuts to get around corners or to you know make a 90-degree angle so if you do those things that’s what’s really going to set you apart for getting all of these really beautiful little curves and stuff in whatever style cushion you have the cushions are all in place it’s early spring it’s beautiful along with the cushions they’re beautiful too you would never be able to find these in the store and honestly why go out and buy a new patio set when your patio set is just fine it didn’t take a whole lot of effort yes it was time-consuming but it’s not an intimidating project something that everybody could do with just a little bit of patience so until next time this is rene romeo thank you so much for watching this project

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